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Setting up a bathtub isn't specifically brain surgery, yet it does call for solid plumbing, woodworking, and also in some cases, tiling abilities. Changing an old bath tub with a brand-new one is also a moderately hard project. If the old tub is easily obtainable, the task can move quickly; if you have to open up a wall surface to remove the old tub and place the new tub, the job is a lot harder. In either situation, the project is within a home handyman's abilities, although you will certainly require a helper to vacate the old bathtub as well as embeded in the new one. Ensure you have certified on your own for the job and also fit attempting it. As opposed to working with a service provider to take over a halfway-completed job, it is far better to think about using one prior to you start. Opportunities are you might need a specialist plumber to make tube connections.
This article will assist you mount a new bath tub in your washroom if you have actually already acquired a brand-new tub as well as do not need to transform the plan of your previous water pipes.
Your tools and also product list must comprise the following:
Preparing for the Installation
To start with, the supporting framework provided with the bathroom needs to be fitted (if needed) according to the manufacturer's directions. Next off, fit the faucets or mixer to the tub. When fitting the faucet block, it is very important to make certain that if the tap features a plastic washing machine, it is fitted between the bath and also the taps. On a plastic bathroom, it is also practical to fit a sustaining plate under the faucets system to prevent strain on the bath tub.
Fit the flexible faucet ports to the bottom of both faucets using 2 nuts and also olives (often provided with the bathtub). Fit the plug-hole electrical outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet opening, and after that pass the outlet through the hole in the bath. Utilize the nut provided by the manufacturer to fit the plug-hole. Take a look at the plug-hole electrical outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next off, fit completion of the flexible overflow pipeline to the overflow electrical outlet. Afterwards, screw the pipe to the overflow face which need to be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you utilize all of the supplied washers.
Connect the trap to the bottom of the waste electrical outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste electrical outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the trap to the outlet. Connect the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bath should now prepare to be fitted in its last setting.
Removing Old Taps
If you need to replace old faucets with brand-new ones as a part of your installment, then the first thing you must do is separate the water system. After doing so, activate the faucets to drain any kind of water remaining in the system. The procedure of eliminating the existing faucets can be fairly bothersome as a result of the restricted accessibility that is often the case.
Use a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut that links the supply pipelines to the faucets. Have a towel all set for the remaining water that will certainly come from the pipes. When the supply pipes have been removed, use the exact same device to loosen up the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will require to quit the single faucets from turning during this procedure. As soon as the faucets have been removed, the holes in the bath/basin will certainly need to be cleansed of any kind of old securing substance.
Prior to proceeding to fit the brand-new taps, contrast the pipe connections on the old taps to the brand-new faucets. If the old taps are longer than the brand-new faucets, then a shank adapter is required for the brand-new taps to fit.
Mounting the Bath tub
Making use of the two wooden boards under its feet, put the bath tub in the required placement. The wooden boards are valuable in evenly spreading out the weight of the tub over the area of the boards instead of focusing all the weight onto 4 tiny points.
The following objective is to guarantee that the tub is leveled all round. This can be attained by inspecting the level and also adjusting the feet on the tub till the level checks out degree.
To mount taps, fit the bottom of the furthest flexible faucet adapter to the suitable supply pipeline by making a compression join; then do the same for the various other tap.
Activate the water and check all joints as well as new pipework for leaks as well as tighten them if necessary. Fill the tub as well as additionally check the overflow outlet and the normal electrical outlet for leaks.
Lastly, repair the bathroom paneling as defined in the maker's instruction manual. Tiling and securing around the bath tub should wait up until the bathtub has been made use of at least once as this will certainly settle it right into its last setting.
Fitting New Touches
If the tails of the new faucets are plastic, then you will need a plastic port to prevent damage to the thread. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the tap and the various other end offers a link to the current supply pipelines.
If you require to fit a monobloc, then you will call for decreasing couplers, which connects the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the typical 15mm supply pipeline.
Next off, position the tap in the installing opening in the bath/basin ensuring that the washing machines are in place in between the faucet as well as the sink. Protect the tap in place with the supplier provided backnut. As soon as the faucet is firmly in place, the supply pipelines can be linked to the tails of the faucets. The faucets can either be linked by using corrugated copper piping or with normal faucet connectors. The former kind must be connected to the tap finishes initially, tightening only by hand. The supply pipelines can later be connected to the various other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have been attached.
Tiling Around the Tub
In the location where the bath satisfies the ceramic tile, it is needed to seal the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is necessary as the installation can relocate enough to fracture a rigid seal, creating the water to permeate the wall in between the bathroom and the tiling, resulting in difficulties with dampness and also feasible leakages to the ceiling listed below.
You can pick from a selection of coloured sealants to assimilate your fixtures as well as fittings. They are sold in tubes and cartridges, and also are capable of securing voids approximately a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger void to load, you can fill it with twists of drenched paper or soft rope. Bear in mind to constantly fill the bathtub with water before sealing, to enable the movement experienced when the bathtub is in use. The sealant can crack relatively very early if you do not take into consideration this motion prior to securing.
Conversely, ceramic coving or quadrant floor tiles can be utilized to border the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and also reduce to dimension, are likewise conveniently available on the market. It is advisable to fit the ceramic tiles making use of water-resistant or water-proof glue and also cement.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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